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Tick master cylinder

With the car off the road for 1.5 years for repairs, it was a big disappointment to find that the new clutch was dragging / not releasing properly. A google search reveals that this is a common problem with aftermarket heavy duty clutches, and that the solution is an adjustable clutch master cylinder. I found a dealer for a Tick master on eBay, and then there was an additional 3 weeks to wait for the arrival in my post office.
I had noticed this corrosion on the clutch pedal assembly earlier, but in my mind this was caused by a water leak so I sprayed the area with a corrosion inhibitor and didn't think more of it...until it was time for removal. On further tought, the corrosion is of course caused by a bad clutch master cylinder, with both the piston seal and dust boot letting fluid out. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, creating ideal conditions for corrosion. The leak can also be a factor in the clutch drag, with the same effect as air in the brake lines causing a spongy brake pedal and reduced braking power.

I had to cut the hard line using a Dremel tool and remove the master together with the clutch pedal assembly, as the corrosion had locked the master solid in its slot.

Tick master installed in the assembly. I removed the corrosion using Metal Ready and painted it black. Since the clutch spring is removed, I cut away associated aluminum and sheet metal - looks much cleaner. I also reinforced the center section of the assembly, I can't stand flimsy pedals.
Tick master in place. Due to the limited space for tools, I installed the clutch line on the master prior to mounting it in the firewall. I also used a thread locker to ensure that the fitting stays in place. By splitting the original rubber booth, it was possible to reinstall it to seal off the firewall opening.

Next up was to adjust the rod length of the master cylinder. I started off with the clutch pedal all the way to the bottom, and then slowly raised it while checking if the car wanted to creep forward as I revved the engine in 4th gear. When it stops creeping forward, you know that the clutch is not dragging and releasing correctly. After I had found the correct adjustment, the clutch pedal was in fact at the same height as the OEM master cylinder.